Editor’s Note: This article comes from the WeChat public account “Gu Yu Data – Tencent News” (ID: guyudata), authors, Jiang Liu, Yang Ruixian, Lin Rongrong, Hu Gengshuo, design Zhu Xi, Weng Zhuo, Huang Rou double, 36 氪 authorized release.It is another year to watch the season of red leaves and ginkgo.In all major scenic spots and parks, if you find that there are more people wearing Chinese clothes than red leaves, don’t be surprised. Wearing Hanfu is no longer a self-entertainment of the niche community. The girls with high arms are everywhere, and the skirts are flying everywhere.There are also a few stars.In 2017, Lin Zhiling wore a cloak of a pine-flowered plum butterfly, and made a warm appearance on the big screen of Times Square in New York.When Zhiling’s sister cleverly said that “China has a great etiquette, so it is called Xia; there is the beauty of the service, that is, the Chinese”, who will not dump for the traditional Chinese Hanfu?Figure 丨 “The Great Craftsman 2019” The Chinese costume worn by Zhiling’s sister was designed by “Chinese clothing LV” – “Ming Huatang”. Their Hanfu items are around 3,500 yuan, and the suit price is more than 9,000 yuan.However, the high price did not prevent the Hanfu robes (“there is no clothes, the same robes”, the Chinese clothing circle called “the same robes”), and now the “Ming Huatang” period has beenIt was discharged at the end of April 2021.For ordinary Hanfu fans, such high prices can not afford, but fortunately in the omnipotent treasure, the average price of the Hanfu store in the early 100 yuan abound.The girls of the Cardamom, wearing Hanfu in the park and major attractions to take pictures, go shopping, and go to the appointment, is already commonplace.From the perspective of the passers-by to the full street skirt in 2003, Zhengzhou citizen Wang Letian took a Chinese costume and took to the streets, causing a sensation and even boarded the Singapore Lianhe Zaobao.In 2004, a group of Hanfu fans set up Tianhan.In the same year, Baidu “Hanfu” was established.The Hanfu circle at that time was still very small.By August 2019, the number of registered users of “Hanfu” exceeded one million.According to the Hanfu Information Forum in the Hanfu Circle, there are about 2 million Hanfu fans in China in 2018.In addition to the perseverance of folk Hanfu lovers, the blessing of commercial activities and the exposure of the media have also become the driving force of the Hanfu trend.For example, Tmall aimed at the young people’s dressing trend, and launched the “Golden Wind Award” in the Chinese Silk Museum in Hangzhou, offering 200 sets of 50 models to the audience.In the reality show “We Are Coming”, Xu Jiao wearing Chinese clothes can be seen in almost every period.Short films such as Xiao Zhan and Mu Ziyang, dressed in Chinese costumes, received hundreds of thousands of broadcasts in a short period of time.In addition, the explosion of costume dramas such as “Chen Qing Ling”, “Sweet honey sinking like frost”, “Knowing whether it should be green fat red thin” also introduced a wave of traffic for Hanfu.Figure 丨 “Know whether it should be green fat red thin” Hanfu is the world of young girls.According to the “Hanfu Information” data, in 2018, the proportion of male and female Hanfu enthusiasts was close to 1:9, and the female robes were younger, with 19-24 women, followed by 16-18.The huge Hanfu group gave birth to a huge Hanfu industry.The number of Hanfu merchants on Taobao has soared from 7 in 2005 to 815 in 2018.At the same time, in 2018, the total sales of Hanfu and Taobao’s two platforms were 921 million yuan.It is also said that after more than ten years of controversy, Hanfu finally “breaks the circle” and gradually becomes popular and accepted by the public.But like other niche circles, the Hanfu circle, which has a lot of rules, has long since scorned.Briefly speaking, the main contradiction in the Hanfu circle can be divided into the disputes of “mountain” and “positive”, the “test-based” and the “shouyi”.Wearing Hanfu, we are not “mountain”, “mountain” and “positive” disputes, that is, genuine and cottage battle.In the Hanfu circle, “wearing the mountain” is at the absolute bottom of the scorn chain.The Hanfu system is basically fixed, and the free play is mainly in the fabrics, patterns (and their arrangement) and printing of the clothes.Originally designed stores will cost more in style design, but because the original price is high, and most need to wait for the schedule, it gives the cottage a chance to take advantage of the loophole.”Despise the cottage” source authors and consumers respect the original, but many of the early entry into the circle of Xiaomeng new for the standard, Shanzheng does not understand, or can not afford to buy genuine Chinese clothes and bought a cottage.Some people know that they are cottages, but they want to buy clothes they like. This kind of behavior is called “Pangolin.”In the Hanfu activities, the appearance of “Pangolin” will inevitably lead to criticism.It is difficult to distinguish between the cottage and the genuine ones. The robes summed up the common vocabulary of some cottage products: “national style”, “performance clothing”, “soft girl”, “fairy”, “costume””,” “贵妃”, “photo studio”, “class service” and other signs, in all likelihood, is a cottage.In the process of crawling the keywords, Gu Yu data also found that the Chinese clothes on the Taobao were all over the place, and the new ones that wanted to enter the circle were bright.There are many rules in the Hanfu circle, such as the “Testing Party” and the “Shouyi School” (the costume and the cinema style), which is another “water and fire”.The “Testing Party” believes that Hanfu is a retrospective of Chinese civilization and needs to be treated with rigorous treatment. However, the “Xiuyi Party” feels that wearing Hanfu is a happy picture and does not need to be too rigid.”I laugh at home and don’t wear it. I am too rigid to ridicule my family.” In the eyes of the “Testing Party”, Hanfu is the “traditional costume of the Han nationality”. Up and down five thousand years, each dynasty has different standards.Taking “Hanfu” as the key word, after climbing the data of 4,000 Taobao stores, Gu Yu data found that “Ming system” Hanfu is the most standard system on Taobao, and there are 479 related keywords, followed by Tang, Song and Jin.Hanfu.The Ming Dynasty Hanfu is a dignified and beautiful place with a large number of historical facts. It has a large fan base and is also the first choice for Hanfu entry-level enthusiasts.Ming Hanfu women’s wear mainly has skirts, skirts, and the outer layer of clothing has a more than a, cloak and so on.The collar type is mainly for the cross, and the top is for the short upper jaw. Generally, the knee is not a knee, the skirt is a horse-face skirt, and the skirt is pleated on the side.The Tang system and the Song Dynasty Hanfu are characterized by elegant and elegant movements.Although the Hanfu clothing is relatively unpopular, it has also won many loyal fans because it carries the traditional “weijin style” of the scholar-officials.In addition to the standard, the pattern of Hanfu is also very particular.Among the complex and varied Hanfu patterns, elegant and beautiful plants and birds and beasts representing Xiangrui are the most popular elements.The contempt for the “Schoolship” can be seen in their attitude towards the “Wei Jinfeng”.The Wei and Jin Dynasties are popular in the Jin system. The Jin system is a system that is very recognized by the circle. However, the clothing of the “Wei Jin Feng” is unrestrained and is added with various types of wide-robes and large sleeves. It is a free use of various merchants and the addition of Xian Xia elements.The hardest hit.Therefore, “Wei Jinfeng” is also known as “photo studio wind” and “wei Jin crazy”.Wearing the wrong clothes, I was taught by the shackles, but I slammed my face and criticized it.If you want to wear high-heeled shoes, wear glasses, and put on your hair, you will be told that this is not the correct match of Hanfu… In fact, the girls who wear Hanfu are not dressed for specific holidays.dress up.According to the statistics of “Hanfu Information”, more than half of the robes in the situation that tend to wear Chinese clothes will choose to wear Hanfu in daily life.The reason why a little girl likes Hanfu may not be related to the grand slogan of promoting Chinese culture. She just wants to wear beautiful and beautiful dresses, go shopping, go to the appointment.Many Hanfu fans feel the pressure of mixed circles, choose to entertain themselves, and never enter the circle to find organizations.The conclusion “Chinese clothes, not in the old clothes of the Ming Dynasty, but in the traditional era of dress.” The documentary “The Great Craftsman” made a “disenchantment” on Hanfu.When the mystery and high coldness of Hanfu gradually fade away, don’t be surprised by the growing number of “combined gowns” on the street.For them, they only wear a traditional costume that is beautiful and beautiful.As for the so-called scorn chain, it is “adverse” for “preciousness” and “rigorous” for “rigorous”!Data source: Taobao data crawling magic mirror market information Hanfu information “2018 Hanfu industry report”, “Chinese clothing business survey report” (2014-2018) several English: “Tmall national tide came: national wind awards, costumed interpretation of Oriental ChinaThe beauty of the service.
The Hanfu you wear is beautiful, but in all likelihood, it is a cottage.